Return to Fukushima
WELCOME TO MY TRAVEL BLOG!

   

From August 27 to September 4, 2011, I took an incredible journey back to my “Japanese hometown” of Nihonmatsu in Fukushima Prefecture, Japan.  I had taught English in Nihonmatsu from 1998-2000, and my last visit was in 2002. 

The week was a whirlwind of emotions as I returned for the first time in nine years.  I reconnected with friends and former coworkers, and learned about life in the area six months after the devastating earthquake, tsunami, and radiation disasters of March 2011. 

To read my travel blog chronologically, scroll all the way to the bottom of this page and click “4”.  That will bring you right to the the beginning.

Thank you for reading!

Amy

エイミー

Updated - Links about Fukushima

Below are links to articles, videos, and photographs from Fukushima that I thought were interesting.  I will be updating them periodically.

We Will Always Remember You

Eight months after the earthquake and tsunami, “A Very Important Message from Tsunami Victims in Japan to the World”.

Into Japan’s Dead Zone

The area surrounding the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear plant remains a wasteland eight months after disaster struck (Washington Post, Chico Harlan, November 19, 2011)

Fukushima Update

Nuclear news from Japan - updated daily.

Report Gives New Details of Chaos at Stricken Plant

Fukushima Daiichi Unit 1 was stuck in darkness, and everyone on site feared that the reactor core was damaged. It was the day after a huge earthquake and a towering tsunami devastated the plant, and the workers for Tokyo Electric Power Company knew they were the only hope for halting an unfolding nuclear disaster.

10,000 Free Round-Trip Tickets to Japan

“If you’ve ever wanted to visit Japan, this may be your chance.  In a desperate attempt to lure tourists back to a country plagued by radiation fears and constant earthquakes, the Japan Tourism Agency’s proposed an unprecedented campaign – 10,000 free roundtrip tickets…” (ABC News, Akiko Fujita, October 11, 2011)

JET Alums Return to Tohoku

Read about other U.S. JET alum experiences on the Tohoku Invitational Program. “From around the world, 14 JET alums were selected to return to Japan. Of those, eight were US JET alums. Please visit their blogs, read their words, look at their photos, watch their videos to see how Japan and Tohoku are working together to recover, enjoy life and look towards the future.”

Article about the Tohoku Invitational Program

“Japan is employing an unusual method in its attempt to rejuvenate its faltering international image after a massive earthquake and tsunami devastated the country exactly six months ago on March 11…”

Strong Children Japan

“Portraits of Japanese children and young people living with the ongoing consequences of the Fukushima Daichi nuclear accident, the Tohoku earthquake and tsunami of March 11th 2011. The images and words are made by the children, combined with their portrait by Japan-based English artist Geoff Read done according to their instructions. The aim is to enable them to share their important experiences and thoughts with the world.”

Typhoon, Quake Hit Battered Japan, 1 Million Evacuated

“A powerful typhoon made landfall in the main island of Japan today, killing at least six people, and forcing the evacuation of more than a million others. And just hours later the country was hit with an earthquake…”  (ABC News, Akiko Fujita, September 21, 2011)

The state of Fukushima in August 2011 - a must read!

This is an excellent summary of the situation in Fukushima.  It includes thorough descriptions of what I witnessed and experienced myself, with background information and scientific data to support and explain the observations.  I highly recommend taking the time to read it!  Also, here is a gallery of photos that correspond with the article.

Japan’s tsunami tragedy: already fading from sight?

“More than six months after a quake triggered a devastating tsunami and nuclear crisis in Japan, there is still much left to do – and a fear that no one’s listening.” (Christian Science Monitor, Gavin Blair, September 20, 2011)

Six months after Japan’s tsunami, residents worry their plight is fading from view (video)

“Many residents in Japan’s northeast are struggling to put their lives back together six months after Japan’s March 11 earthquake and tsunami. More than 80,000 people remain in temporary housing.”  (Christian Science Monitor, Gavin Blair, September 12, 2011)

Tsunami – pictures from March compared to six months after

“Six months after the tsunami that devastated the east coast of Japan, new pictures show how reconstruction efforts are progressing.”

Home in Boston!

The flight back was smooth and I am home safe and sound.  :)

From Hurricane to Typhoon - Heading Home to Boston


As I packed my bags this morning, I watched news about the typhoon that has been tearing through Japan, south of Tokyo.  Images of flooding and other damage and reports of lives lost flashed across the screen.  I can`t believe that I left the U.S. in the midst of a hurricane, and will now leave Japan in the midst of a typhoon.  What a crazy year…  

My flight seems to be on time, so I am now on my way to Narita Airport.

Wake Up Call

I woke up at 6 am this morning to shaking. I was nervous when I checked into the hotel last night and was assigned a room on the 9th floor, feeling that my luck had been too good this week not feeling any earthquakes. Sure enough, one began the day. My heart pounded as the building shook and I lay in bed waiting to see if it would be bad enough to get out of bed. After about 15 seconds it stopped, and eventually, my heart stopped pounding.

Ginza - Night Out With Manami

It was nice to meet Manami once more on my last night in Tokyo.  We had a beautiful meal in Ginza and talked about my week. 

At one point, she asked me if I was nervous to have been in an area with medium levels of radiation.  I told her I thought it was fine.  “Yeah…” she said “Anyway, my aunt was bombed twice and she’s totally fine now!” 

It turns out that Manami’s aunt was one of only a few people to experience both atomic bombs in Japan.  She was working in Hiroshima when the city was bombed, and then returned home to Nagasaki where she was bombed again.  I couldn’t believe it.  “She’s fine?” I asked.  “Yes,” Manami replied, “She is in her 90s and totally healthy.”  Wow.  It gives me hope.

After dinner, I don’t feel ready to return to my hotel and walk in the opposite direction with Manami towards her subway stop.  I know that when I return to my hotel the week will be pretty much over, and I will return to Boston tomorrow.  Despite my best efforts to stay awake, however, my feet begin to drag and my eyes droop.  I feel deliriously tired after this intense week, and I know that I’ll need to go straight back to the hotel and to bed.

Manami and I say goodbye, and we go our separate ways.

Scenes from my late afternoon stroll around Tokyo

More info:

     - Tokyo Tower

     - Asahi Super Dry Hall

     - Omiyage - Gift Giving in Japan

     - Fake Food in Japan

Back in Tokyo - Sensoji Temple in Asakusa district

[Flash 10 is required to watch video]

Lunch with the Kimuras

Reunited with the Kimuras

My time in Fukushima was not quite over.  On my way to Tokyo, I stopped in Koriyama City and met the Kimura Family.  It felt like a miracle that I was able to meet them, and in many ways it was. 

Dear to my heart and the “Japanese Family” of my friend Kristin, I had so many fond memories with the Kimuras.  Nobuko Kimura is an artist, and they lived in a beautiful country house in Namie Town filled with her art and pottery.  She and her husband have two sons who were in junior high school and elementary school when I lived in Japan, and who are now in their twenties.  It was always a joy to visit the Kimuras, and the summer after I left Japan, Nobuko and her son Ryosuke also came to New Hampshire for a visit and stayed with my family.

                    

                                 Nobuko painting in 1999

    

                   Me, Ryosuke, Nobuko, Kristin and Seiya in 2002

They had lived in Namie Town, which was struck by the the unimaginable disasters of earthquake, tsunami, and radiation.  After hearing the horrific news on March 11, my friend Kristin and I searched for information about them.  It was agonizing to type their names in the Red Cross database… And nothing came up.  Finally, we connected with a mutual friend about a week later, and he told us that he knew they were safe and had evacuated from Namie, but did not know where they were.  We had no way of getting in touch with them, since the only contact information we had was their home address and phone number.  When I arrived in Japan with only six days to spend in Fukushima, I didn’t think there was much chance of finding them.  But thanks to Mr. Shimizu at the relocated Namie town office, I was finally able to connect with them, and we had planned this rendezvous in Koriyama.

This was no small feat, as the Kimura family was now spread across the region.  Nobuko Kimura, her daughter-in-law Emi, and Nobuko’s two young grandchildren were now living in Inawashiro, west of Nihonmatsu in the central mountainous region of Fukushima Prefecture.  It is a beautiful town with a famous lake, but has long and harsh winters, especially compared to the coastal town of Namie where the Kimuras had lived.

   

       Inawashiro is by near the large lake in the center of this map.  

Meanwhile, Nobuko’s husband Mr. Kimura was now living in Soma.  He is a high school teacher and was reassigned to Soma after the high school where he worked was evacuated.  He spends the work week in Soma and visits his wife and family in Inawashiro most weekends.  It’s about a three-hour drive. 

Nobuko’s older son Ryosuke (Emi’s husband and father of their two young children) is even farther away.  He too was transferred by his job, south to Ibaraki Prefecture.  He does not have a car and it takes him nearly six hours to travel to Inawashiro by train, so he only visits about once a month.  His job is working in a nuclear power plant. He was working at the Daiichi plant in Fukushima until March. 

Nobuko’s younger son, Seiya, is a college student in Tokyo.  Nobuko was visiting him in March when disaster struck, and she stayed down there for a month before relocating with Emi and her grandchildren to Inawashiro.  Seiya is still in Tokyo continuing his studies.   

 

Mr. and Mrs. Kimura (Nobuko) with their granddaughter Aoba and grandson Kureha

I was elated to see Nobuko, Mr. Kimura, Emi, Ryosuke, toddler Aoba and baby Kureha at Koriyama Station.  When I met Ryosuke in 1999, he was in junior high school, and it was hard to believe that he was now married with two children!  I was so happy to meet the new additions to the family and we all laughed and smiled at this reunion after all these years. 

                     

                                  Ryosuke and Emi

We had tea together in the station, but the kids were restless and we soon moved on to a Chinese restaurant where we had our own room and the kids had a little more space to move.  There was so much to talk about and catch up on, it was hard to know where to begin.  The conversation quickly turned to the events of March. 

Emi and Ryosuke and the kids had been living with Nobuko and Mr. Kimura, as is traditional in Japan.  When the major earthquake struck, Emi managed despite the shaking to run upstairs and pull baby Kureha from his crib where he was napping.  She most likely saved his life, for few moments later, some of Nobuko’s sculptures fell from shelves into the crib.

Mr. Kimura was at school when the earthquake struck.  He drove home to check on Emi and his grandchildren.  He was not listening to the radio and did not have an emergency notification on his cell phone, so he had no idea that the tsunami was approaching.  He planned to return to the high school immediately after checking on Emi and the kids, but for some reason he lingered at home.  This probably saved his life, as the route back to his school was soon completely washed out by the waves of the tsunami.  The house was fine.

Meanwhile, Ryosuke was at work at the Daiichi Plant.  When the earthquake struck, he dove under a table.  The shaking was so fierce and lasted so long that he soon ran outside.  He said the view of the buildings and the whole world around him shaking was unbelievable.  He stayed at the plant for about an hour after the earthquake, and then fled and did not return in the days that followed.  He believes that this prevented any serious radiation exposure.

The Kimuras quickly evacuated their home, bringing only the bare essentials.  Ryosuke and his father returned once afterwards and grabbed their computers, but the rest of the household possessions remain in the abandoned home and may remain there forever.  It was hard to comprehend the gravity of this, that they will most likely never return to Namie.

(9/8/11 update - another brief return to evacuated areas was recently permitted: Japan disaster: Fukushima residents return to visit their homes)

I kept thinking of what always seemed to me to be an idyllic life that they led in their country home.  I thought of all the beautiful pottery, years of work… I commented to Nobuko that it was so sad that she had to leave her pottery behind, but she wouldn’t allow me to dwell on the negatives.  “I can still paint,” she said.  In fact, she had brought two beautiful hand-painted fans and the homemade calendars she makes every year for me and Kristin.  I was so touched. 

              

At another point, I said it must be so hard to be separated from neighbors and friends – realizing that so many Namie lives were lost in the tsunami and that those who survived are now scattered across the region.  “I have new friends now,” she said in her gentle voice.  She says she enjoys playing kendo, her hobby for the past few years, in her new town.  I mentioned it must be difficult for Mr. Kimura and Ryosuke to be stationed away from the rest of the family, and Nobuko reminded me that they were so lucky to both still have their jobs.

And slowly, we moved away from talk of the disasters and the struggle of adjusting to this new life.  We talked about the children – Aoba, whose name means green leaf, and baby Kureba, whose name means brown leaf.  Mr. Kimura wrote the kanji (Japanese characters) for me on a piece of paper.  We called Seiya in Tokyo to say hello.  And we exchanged stories and memories of times we spent together in the past.

And eventually, it was time to say goodbye again.  I had a long journey ahead of me, back to Tokyo and then back to my life in the U.S.  And they all had journeys of their own – back to Inawashiro, Soma, Ibaraki… and the long journey of living one day at a time.. 

   

Farewell Nihonmatsu

As is the custom in Japan for those who are dear, Mr. Tanji, Misa-san, Makoto and Mrs. Sato all met me at the train station to say goodbye. 

What I didn’t expect was a fifth person to see me off, and to even accompany me on the train to Koriyama City.  Just as I was heading to the train platform, a young man appeared.  It turned out to be Awano, who used to be one of my karate classmates back when I lived in Japan.  Just a young boy back then, he is now in his mid-twenties and coincidentally was on his way to Tokyo for work.  He was always one of my favorite classmates in karate.  Even at a young age, he had always struck me as being such a kind and thoughtful person.  It was so nice to see him all grown up, and I was happy to have his company on the train.

                                      

                                        Awano in 1998

     

                   Mr. Tanji, Misa-san, me, Awano, Mrs. Sato, Makoto

My train was approaching.  I exchanged a hundred goodbyes and thank yous with the Tanjis and Satos.  Mr. Tanji repeated for the umpteenth time that he thinks I am really Japanese at heart and that I should move to Japan forever.  I joked with him not to worry, he wouldn’t miss me because I would send him emails every day now that I know his email address, and he would get to practice his English every day responding to me. 

Finally, the train arrived.  Awano and I stepped on it, and we all waved goodbye as it pulled out of the station.  Goodbye again, goodbye for now.

Enkai with Mr. Tanji and the English Teachers

On Friday evening, I had a wonderful reunion with many of the Japanese Teachers of English (JTEs as they are referred to in the JET Program) with whom I used to teach. 

We met for an enkai, which basically means a banquet but is often usually a drinking party (nomikai), an important part of working life in Japan.

I used to love enkai when I lived in Japan.  They were an opportunity to have fun, practice my Japanese, and get to know my Japanese colleagues a little more in a relaxed setting.  Before I went to Japan, I had the impression that Japanese people were typically very serious and reserved.  Right away, even in the office setting of the Board of Education, I learned that I was wrong about this, as everyone was extremely amiable and loved to joke and laugh with me.  In enkai, I really go to see how raucous and fun my colleagues could be, and I loved it. 

I also learned a lot about Japanese culture from enkai.  For example, the tradition of keeping an eye on your neighbor at the table and making sure that they had enough to eat and drink, refilling their drink if they began to run low.  (Read more about the culture and stages of enkai here: Enkai: Work and Business Dinners in Japan)

And of course an amazing part of enkai is the food!  The spread of food is usually very impressive at an enkai, with multiple courses and a chance to sample many types of traditional cuisine.

                  

                        Typical spread of food at an enkai

For this enkai, we met at a new Italian restaurant near the train station in Nihonmatsu (although the food looked distinctly Japanese to me!).  Many people had worked hard to organize this event.  Mr. Tanji had visited different schools to track down the teachers I used to work with (even trekking out onto a sports field during a summer practice session to contact one of the teachers!) to tell them I was coming to Japan and to invite them to this enkai.  Ms. Yanai, a teacher who I used to carpool with to Nihonmatsu 3rd Junior High School, had organized the details of the restaurant selection, reservation, and menu. Meanwhile, all of the teachers had carved time out of their extremely busy lives to be there – they had all begun new semesters of teaching, a few had just returned from leading school field trips to Tokyo, and many had just spent the whole day working at the English speech contest.  I was so touched that they still remembered me fondly after all these years, just as I remembered them so fondly.

         

               Party with the English teachers on my last visit in 2002

                                        Reunited in 2011

One of the best parts of this reunion was that it was a reunion for everyone.  Many of the teachers had worked together in the past but were now assigned to different schools.  The evening was full of enthusiastic conversation, smiles, and laughter.  At one point, I looked around the room and felt so happy to see the joy in the room.  I have had moments where I wondered what I could possibly do to help the situation in Fukushima and my Japanese hometown.  This, I thought, is something.  For the people I have met this week, my trip to Japan was at least something interesting and different, a change from all the constant talk and worry about tragedy and disaster, and hopefully at least a little bright spot in the darkness.

                            

                      

                         

At the end of the night, the group gave me an energetic round of BANZAI! and behind my huge smile I felt tears well up in my eyes.  I felt so much love for these people around me, this town, this country… It suddenly hit me that tomorrow I would depart, again.  I hoped in my heart that I would be back to visit again soon.

My Old Apartment

After the speech contest, Jen took me back for a quick peek at her apartment, which was the same apartment where I had lived and where Nihonmatsu ALTs have lived for generations.  I think back to all the times that I’ve seen my old college or visited neighborhoods where I once lived and looked nostalgically from the outside, wondering what it would be like to walk through the door of my former home again.  Thanks to Jen, I had the chance to do that.  I was incredulous to see that it looked almost exactly the same. 

    

                 That’s it - my old apartment on the top right!

                 

                           Stairs up to the apartment

As I walked in the door, I was immediately transported back in time by the smell of the tatami mat floor.  Memories of the first time I walked through that door in the summer of 1998 flashed back to me.   

          

Not only had the apartment been passed down for generations, but so had much of the furniture.  I recognized the desk, the bookshelf, the kitchen china cabinet, and even some of the bedding.  I saw the curtains that the Board of Education had bought for me in my second year, and the “new” (in 1999) hot water heater and washing machine.

         

I was especially surprised when Jen pointed out that one ALT had taped English translations of the washing machine buttons that were very helpful.  “I think that was me!” I cried.  Sure enough, I recognized my handwriting.  It cracked me up to see that they were still there.

                                 

“And what about the portfolio of teaching ideas that I left behind for each school,” I asked, “are those still around?”  I had created folders of ideas for each chapter in the textbook, but had assumed they had been lost over the years, or that the textbooks had changed and they had no longer been useful.  “That must be the box at 3Chu,” Jen replied. “That’s been really helpful.”  Wow! I guess I did leave a legacy.  :)

 

Japanese vending machine

Japanese vending machine

The English Speech Contest

When I left Japan in 2000, I never imagined that I would go to another junior high school regional English language speech contest. 

And if I had imagined it, I certainly never would have imagined that I would hear some of the same exact speeches!

The English Speech Contest is an important tradition for Japanese junior high school students and JET Program Assistant Language Teachers (ALTs).  You can read an interesting history of the contest here: http://www.jnsafund.org/en/origin/root.html

I will always remember arriving in Japan in the summer of 1998 and being asked right away to coach students as they practiced their speeches over their summer vacation.  I didn’t know what exactly was expected, especially as the teachers encouraged me to “teach gestures”, and I remember feeling bad for the kids I had coached when I finally went to the regional speech contest and saw that I had not at all coached them in the way that the winning speeches were performed.  Let’s just say the he style of speech was… dramatic.  As an example, here is a video of a girl who won the contest for all of Japan in 2008:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88ycyPxdF6w  

   

Now imagine an entire day of listening to speeches striving to be like that.  Well, actually, only part of the day was spent on “origination”, or original speeches.  The first few hours of the day were spent on “recitation”, speeches that came from English textbooks or other sources, and that was when I was surprised to hear many of the same exact speeches that were popular when I had been a teacher in Japan. From “A Robot” to “Limelight” to “Tom Has to Work on Saturday”, I quickly remembered hearing them before, many times. 


                  

The new addition to the speech contest in the Nihonmatsu region was the skit category, which came late in the afternoon.  This was much more lively and entertaining than the speeches, and I think it is a fantastic option for kids who want to practice English.  The skit category is only in the Nihonmatsu region, and was the idea of one of the English teachers I used to work with.  

I was at the speech contest from 8:30am to 4:30pm.  It was a long day, but I didn’t mind sitting in the audience all day, I actually needed the rest.  I zoned in and out of the speeches, listening to The Carpenters during breaks (the English music of choice for these types of functions hasn’t changed at all either!), and saying hello to some of the teachers I used to work with.

 

                   Students practicing during the lunch break

One of the best parts of attending the speech contest was chatting with the region’s current ALTs.  Each of them had been coaching kids over the summer and were sitting in the audience together keeping track of how their students did and coaching a bit more during breaks.  Two of the ALTs were on their fourth year of the JET Program, one (Jen, the Nihonmatsu ALT who has my former position) was on her second year, and the other three had just arrived within the past month.  They were very friendly and welcoming to me and I enjoyed the feeling of JET camaraderie. 

          

                          Lunch break with the current ALTs

In the origination category, many students spoke about the March disasters.  There was a recurring theme of appreciating the small wonders in life and overcoming hardship.  There were stories of people coming together as a community after the events of March, of kids appreciating their families more, and of life-changing volunteer experiences in shelters helping those less fortunate.  In these speeches, I heard a a tone of optimism and hope.  I wanted to believe it - that we can rise above, whatever it takes.